There is something irresistible about old furniture. A mahogany chest of drawers with brass handles worn smooth by a century of hands, a oak dresser that smells faintly of beeswax, a chrome-and-Formica sideboard straight out of a 1960s family home. Buying secondhand is thrifty, sustainable and far more interesting than anything flat-packed. But it is also a market with no standard rulebook, which is why a few well-aimed questions can be the difference between a bargain heirloom and an expensive mistake.

What Can You Tell Me About Where It Came From?

Provenance is the story of an object, and it matters for two reasons: value and confidence. A dealer who knows their stock will happily tell you whether a piece came from a single country house, a house clearance in a nearby town, or an auction lot. Vague answers are not automatically a red flag, but complete evasions usually are.

Ask specifically:

• Has it been in the same family or house for a long time? Long ownership often means gentler use and fewer bodged repairs.
• Has it been restored, and by whom? A sympathetic repair is fine; a heavy-handed one can halve the value.
• Are there any labels, stamps or maker's marks? Even a faded retailer's label can help date a piece.
• Is it being sold as antique, vintage or simply "old"? In the UK, "antique" traditionally means over 100 years old, but the term is used loosely. Ask for a rough date and what that estimate is based on.

If you are buying from a market stall or a house clearance seller, remember they may genuinely not know the history. That is fine, as long as they say so rather than inventing a tale to close the sale.

What Is the True Condition, Including the Bits I Cannot See?

Old furniture rarely arrives flawless, and that is part of its charm. The trick is knowing the difference between honest patina and structural trouble. Always ask to inspect drawers, doors and the underside, and never feel rushed.

Questions worth putting directly to the seller:

• Is there any woodworm, and has it been treated? Fresh flight holes and fine dust are active signs; old holes with no dust are usually historic and harmless.
• Are there any cracks, splits, warping or signs of damp? Damp damage often shows as a musty smell, lifting veneer or a white bloom on polished surfaces.
• Do all the drawers run smoothly and do the keys work? Sticking drawers may just need candle wax, but swollen runners suggest a damp past.
• Has any part been replaced or repaired? New legs, a replaced back panel or mismatched handles all affect both price and character.
• Is the upholstery original, and if not, when was it redone? For chairs and sofas, frame condition matters more than tired fabric, but a full reupholster is a serious cost.

Take a small torch and a magnet if you can. A magnet will tell you whether those "brass" handles are solid brass or brass-plated steel, and light reveals veneer repairs that daylight hides.

How Will It Actually Get to My House?

This is where enthusiasm most often outruns practicality. A wardrobe that will not fit up your stairs is not a bargain at any price.

Ask before you commit:

• Is delivery included, and how much is it if not? Get a firm figure and a date window in writing.
• Will it be dismantled for transport, and who reassembles it? Some pieces are glued and should never be taken apart.
• Do you have measurements for the widest point, not just the overall size? That includes the depth of a chest with its handles on, and the height of a wardrobe laid flat.
• Is there parking or access at your end, and will the seller need help? Two people and a blanket are often enough for a chair, rarely enough for a piano.

Measure your doorway, staircase turn and the intended alcove before you buy, not after. A few minutes with a tape measure saves a great deal of swearing on a Saturday morning.

What Happens If Something Is Wrong When It Arrives?

Returns policies in the secondhand trade vary enormously, from generous to nonexistent. Ask plainly, and remember that when you buy from a trader rather than a private individual, you generally have stronger rights under UK consumer law, including protection when goods are described inaccurately. Private sales are usually "sold as seen", which puts the emphasis firmly on your own inspection.

• Can I return it, and within how many days?
• Who pays for the return journey?
• Will I get a full refund or credit only?
• Is the agreed price and description confirmed in writing, even by text or email? A simple message saying "oak dresser, circa 1920, £240, collection Saturday" is useful evidence if a dispute arises.

Pay by a method that leaves a trail where possible, and be cautious of anyone pressing for a large cash deposit to "hold" a piece you have not seen.

Is the Price Fair, and Can I Live With It?

Old furniture is not priced on a fixed scale. Condition, rarity, maker, size and even fashion all play a part, and prices for brown furniture have softened considerably in recent years. Ask the seller how they arrived at the figure, and whether there is any movement, particularly if you are buying more than one item or collecting it yourself.

Then ask yourself the questions no dealer can answer. Does it fit the room and the way you actually live? Will you still love it in ten years? If the answer is yes, and the seller has been open about condition and history, you have probably found something worth keeping. Take your time, ask the awkward questions, and enjoy the hunt.